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Conquerors, Minarets and Plov – A journey through Uzbekistan

Standing beneath the towering Bukhara Minaret, I feel as though I’m stepping into the pages of those old childhood stories. The tales of Genghis Khan and Amir Temur are woven into the very stones here, echoing in the ancient walls and whispering through the narrow streets. I remember reading of Genghis Khan, whose armies stormed these lands, sparing this very minaret that now rises defiantly into the sky. Then later, Amir Temur, the mighty ruler from Shakhrisabz, who envisioned an empire that brought Uzbekistan to the centre of the world’s trade and culture, leaving behind the grand, blue-domed cities of Samarkand and Bukhara as his legacy.

Whilst walking to the minaret, only 10 minutes from my hotel, Bukhara feels like a bridge between past and present. I start to recall further stories of the Silk Road where exotic treasures were traded and transported by camel led caravans, I can almost hear the footsteps of ancient merchants and feel the shadows of the mentioned conquerors, who once stood where I now stand.

In Uzbekistan, the past is more than a memory; it lingers, timeless and unforgettable, in the very air around me.

I have been on a small, guided group tour of Uzbekistan invited and organised by Regent Holidays, that has left me breathless from the sites and experiences we have done in a short spell of time.

It was a 7 night whistle stop trip, including 1 x overnight flight to get there, we had 2 nights in Tashkent, 2 nights Bukhara and 2 nights Samarkand.

Transport was made by modern comfortable high speed trains. Flights are possible between these cities, but timings were better by train and with less check in times, train was more convenient and just as fast in total travel time. We also had the bonus of meeting and talking to locals.

 Tashkent

The first thing that struck me about Tashkent was the surprise in how I was confronted with a modern vibrant metropolis. Then, when I thought about it, the city was completely devasted and rebuilt from an earthquake in 1966.

But, as you tour the city, you start to see the striking contrasts of the rebuilt buildings of past and present blending in seamlessly.

You quickly notice the more recent Soviet occupation with buildings and monuments built in their concrete utilitarian style, that still leaves me in fascination and awe. You will also see the architecture of late 19th century Russian imperialism before the Soviets took over – such as Grand Duke Nikolay Konstantinovich’s palace, an ostracised member of the Russian imperial family, that done a lot of good work for Tashkent and its population.

A visit to Amir Temur Square you will find the larger-than-life statue of the great man himself on horseback and the soviet style building of Hotel Uzbekistan as its background.

Then in contrast there is the Khast Imam Complex, the spiritual heart of Tashkent. Here, we marvelled at the ornateness of blue-tiled mosques and madrassas, and find the world-famous Osman Quran, one of the oldest in existence. The peaceful courtyards and intricate architecture are a perfect introduction to Uzbekistan’s rich Islamic heritage.

The Chorsu Bazaar is a must visit, a bustling marketplace that has been active for centuries. Wander among the colourful stalls filled with spices, fruits, and textiles, soaking in the sights and sounds of this timeless trading hub. Be sure to sample freshly baked nan bread or a steaming samsa from a local vendor – the perfect mid-morning snack.

There are further reminders of the Soviet occupation in the Metro where Cosmonaut’s Station, is dedicated to Soviet space exploration and astronomy. Finally the obligatory tall TV tower station that the Soviets seem to have enjoyed building, possibly as a reminder to west that we are still here. Here the views show you how sprawling this metropolis is and is spectacular with the Chimgan mountains as a background.

BUKHARA

Bukhara, often referred to as the “City of a Thousand and One Nights,” is a contrast to Tashkent. This is a city that takes you back in time to the 11th to 14th centuries. It is a living museum with over 2,000 years of history and culture that enchants every visitor. This ancient Silk Road hub is a step back in time to an era of bustling caravanserais and grand bazaars.

Its winding alleys, sun-drenched courtyards, and majestic blue-tiled domes reflect a past rich with trade, learning, and art. Bukhara’s historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a treasure trove of architectural wonders, from the towering Kalyan Minaret (built in 1121 and spared by Ghengis Khan in 1220) to the serene Lyabi-Hauz square. Every corner whispers stories of emirs, scholars, and merchants who once called this city home.

The Ark Fortress, once the seat of Bukhara’s rulers, offers a glimpse into the opulent lives of the emirs while bearing witness to the city’s turbulent past. And amidst the bustling bazaars under ancient domes, you can almost hear the echoes of Silk Road traders bargaining over spices, silk, and gold.

Bukhara is more than its landmarks; it’s a city alive with traditions. Whether sipping green tea by the Lyabi-Hauz pool, marvelling at intricate embroidery, or tasting the region’s famous Plov, every experience feels like a connection to the city’s timeless spirit. In Bukhara, history isn’t just preserved—it thrives, woven into the fabric of daily life and waiting to be discovered by those who seek its magic.

SAMARKAND

Samarkand, the “Jewel of the Silk Road,” is a city that dazzles with its storied past and architectural splendour. Once the capital of Amir Temur’s vast empire, it became a centre of art, science, and culture, drawing scholars and traders from across the ancient world. Walking through Samarkand’s historic heart feels like stepping into a living tapestry, where grandiose monuments rise against the clear Uzbek sky, telling tales of ambition and brilliance. The Registan Square, with its trio of magnificent madrasas, is a breathtaking sight that epitomizes the city’s rich legacy of craftsmanship and learning.

Every corner of Samarkand holds a story. The majestic Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, where Amir Temur rests, is a masterpiece of Timurid architecture with its azure dome and intricate tilework. Nearby, the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis unfolds like a visual poem, its rows of mausoleums adorned with some of the most exquisite tile mosaics in the Islamic world. And then there’s the sprawling Bibi-Khanym Mosque, a symbol of Temur’s grand vision, its imposing structure a testament to the empire’s glory.

 

In Samarkand you will also learn about Ulugh Beg, 15th Century ruler and Grandson of Amir Temur. He dedicated his life to science and astronomy, transforming Samarkand and Bukhara into centres of learning. His works influenced astronomers across Asia and Europe for centuries.

But Samarkand isn’t just about its monuments; it’s about the vibrant culture that continues to thrive. Stroll through the bustling Siyob Bazaar, where the scent of spices and the chatter of vendors evoke the city’s Silk Road heritage. Taste the sweet, sun-kissed fruits of the region or sample the city’s famous nan bread, baked in traditional clay ovens. In Samarkand, the past isn’t just remembered—it’s celebrated, offering visitors a timeless journey through the crossroads of history.

CUISINE

Whether you’re a history enthusiast with an appetite or a food lover seeking new flavours, Uzbekistan’s culinary landscape promises to delight. From sumptuous kebabs to hearty stews and tandoor-baked specialties, the dishes here are as rich as the country’s cultural tapestry, drawing on the vibrant traditions of Turkic and Persian influences to create unforgettable meals that fuel both body and soul.

No dish captures the spirit of Uzbek cuisine like Plov (also known as pilaf or palov), a simple yet celebratory meal of rice, slow-cooked lamb and aromatic spices.

Tasting Plov in its homeland is an essential experience for any food enthusiast. Whether enjoyed from a humble street-side vendor or at one of the country’s many home restaurants specialising in Plov.

Each region brings its own flair to this iconic dish. From the delicate, saffron-accented Tashkent Plov to the richer, meat-heavy version of Samarkand, every variation carries the imprint of centuries-old traditions.

EXPERIENCES

Traveling with a small group tour, especially with a specialist like Regent Holidays, offers an authenticity that larger tours simply can’t replicate. Our journey was rich with unique, intimate experiences—like visiting a local ceramist whose workshop and home were seamlessly intertwined. Tucked behind an unassuming street entrance, we stepped into a lush courtyard filled with fruit trees, vibrant ceramic tiles adorning the walls, and the cheerful sounds of canaries in their cages. This family business, passed down from grandfather to son and then to grandson, gave us an inspiring glimpse into the artistry and resilience of Uzbek traditions. We learned how the family adapted to restrictions during the Soviet era, when working from home was prohibited, and saw first hand how their craft evolved over generations.

In both Bukhara and Samarkand, we dined in home restaurants (restaurants built around a private home, giving a near authentic experience of home cooking), sharing Plov prepared by locals. Watching the cooking process and hearing about the regional differences in flavours and ingredients gave us a deeper appreciation for Uzbekistan’s culinary heritage. A visit to a winery was another unexpected highlight. Uzbekistan has a long tradition of winemaking, introduced by Alexander the Great when he brought grapevines from Greece. Despite interruptions during the Soviet period, this tradition endures. We sampled a variety of local wines, a reflection of the country’s relaxed attitude toward alcohol, even as an Islamic nation.

Train transfers between cities added another layer to the experience—modern high-speed trains not only made travel efficient but also offered a chance to connect with everyday Uzbeks. Conversations in the buffet car were a highlight, as locals eagerly shared stories about their lives and expressed genuine curiosity about ours.

The carefully chosen hotels added to the charm, blending local style with modern comforts. One standout was a beautifully converted Uzbek house with a central courtyard, where Islamic-style décor created an atmosphere steeped in cultural authenticity. In Bukhara we stayed right in the heart of the pedestrianized old town that felt like stepping back to the 14th century—a stark contrast to large chain hotels often located on city outskirts. With knowledgeable guides providing immersive insights into Uzbekistan’s history and culture, our small group format allowed for more personal interactions and deeper exploration.

By the end of the tour, I left Uzbekistan not only captivated by its beauty and heritage but also inspired to explore more of the region. With Kazakhstan and Mongolia now high on my travel list, I can’t wait to delve further into the treasures of Central Asia.

 

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